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THE
MATESE MASSIF
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| Underbrush
in Matese |
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| Geographical
map of Matese |
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| Aerial
view of Matese massif |
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| Countryhouse
on Matese Mountains |
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| Ancient
map fo "Tratturo regio" (royal sheep run) |
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| Spring
on Matese Massif. |
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| Sheeps
on Matese Mountains. |
Between
the mountains of the southern Appennines, the Matese massif
represents without a doubt the place for those most interested
in the fascination of mountain climbing or winter sports.
The numerous roads that go back from every slope, although
some are comfortable despite the many hairpin curves, also
at the most rushed traveler gives time to admire the splendid
alpine views that are offered from its extensive plateaus.
These proud beech-woods covered mountains still preserve some
traditional appearances of the age-old secular pastoral activities.
Today they are opened to mass tourism (the winter station
of Campitello Matese is one of the most used in Southern Italy),
harsh struggles between the Romans and samnites
developed besides these mountains in far ages. In spite of
the submission of Samnites, numerous testimonies of their
civilization remain throughout all of Molise. These are in
places where there are many centers now as Venafro, Bojano
and Isernia, all developed on the site of the primitive Samnite
installations. The ancient Samnitical and Roman presence in
these lands are particularly recalled from the remarkable
and evocative ruins of Saepinum. This is at the foot of the
northern side of the Matese, along one of the roads of the
Appenninian "transumanza" (sheep run), while on
the southern side interesting ruins emerges in Castello Matese
and Alife.
In its geographic-administrative singularity a place give
the sense (for exasperation) of the cointerest that many regions
and provinces have about the Matese. This area is called "Bocca
della Selva" (Mouth of the Forest), a marvelous pass
to 1393 m. of altitude. It is immersed in an immense one beech-wood,
with rich underbrush of mushrooms,
raspberries and strawberries: summer coolness and then snow
and winter ski. The environmental features here remain clean,
while the administration create some competence problem. It
happens because Bocca della Selva is exactly at the crossroads
of two regions - Campania and Molise - and of three provinces,
Caserta, Benevento and Campobasso. Many players do not bring
many initiatives, unfortunately.
In a certain manner the Matese
is delimited by valleys in which, from the
west to east, flow the rivers Volturno, Calore Irpino, Tammaro,
and high Biferno (Molise). A series of high and steep mountains
covers a surface of approximately 1000 square km. It aligns
from NW to SE for a length of approximately 54 km. and a width
that at the maximum point is approximately 30 km., consisting
essentially of two lines of crests. The greater ones are Miletto
(2050 m.), Gallinola (1923 m.) and Mutria (1822m.) that also
limit the campanian-molisan watershed
(even if the molisan side includes a larger extension of the
massif). In this place we only consider the campanian side.
There are a series of valleys, some dry and others deeply
carved from the course of rivers like the Titerno, the Lete
and the Sava, which isolate low hills and formed by steeps
walls like the Vallone dell'Inferno between Castello Matese
and Piedimonte Matese. There are terraces and plateaus that
contribute to draw an high quality environment, fortunately
still for a very large part whole. So it is possible to dedicate
himself to the re-disclosure of foreshortenings and panoramas,
of feeling and human warmth.
In the small villages may again be found, with the sense of
tradition and cordiality, the ancient habit to not forgotten
jobs and to customs, that are still part of the daily way
of life.
This is the habitat in which the transumanza(sheep
run) originated; it was a vital requirement of physical hard
work and solitude. It was a relationship directly between
man and the flock (economical and cultural property together).
It is the instrument for an extraordinary osmosis of civilization,
a vital relationship between various regions and various mentalities,
between the sea and the mountain. The way of "tratturi"
(path) was the road through which the ancient populations
of the Sannio, rough and determined shepherds, went to annoy
nothing less than the great powers of the Etruscan, Greek
and then the Roman. Samnites gave them not only a series of
problems, but also some sharp and historically everlasting
failures.
Yet today the herds are the richness: approximately 40,000
heads of sheep and goats produce meat, cheese and wool. The
breeds are called Comisana, Laticauda, Lamassese. And the
tonnages where the shepherds make cheeses like pecorini, provolette
and caciocavalli are still present.
We return to the geographic Matese, to this land of the mountains
that is also a land of water. Not only because in winter for
a great part of the year, the mountains return the snow in
the form of water, but mostly because of the extraordinary
way the absorbing surface water gives back the water in the
form of a spring
at the base of the massif. There are approximately 350 of
these springs, from east to the west that gush from the foot
of the mountains. This happens when the climate is still acceptable,
in mild winters and in the summer. These springs are not only
of fresh water.
Between the major ones, indeed there are two mineral springs.
One is at Costa Pizzuta (at the foot of Pratella), which contains
principally bicarbonate-calcium-magnesium waters. The other
is at the bottom of the eastern slopes, the sulfurous waters
of Telese.
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